K2 Expedition

Conquering the Savage Mountain – The Expedition to K2

There are perhaps more mountaineers visiting the mountain kingdom as the K2 Expedition than any other mountain. K2, the highest mountain in Pakistan and the second-highest mountain on earth, is a majestic peak located in the Karakoram segment of the Himalayan range. It sits proudly on the border between the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan-administered Northern Areas and the Taxkorgan Tajik Autonomous County of Xinjiang, China. Fondly known as Chogori in the Balti language, which translates to the “king of mountains,” K2 remains relatively obscure outside of Pakistan. Nevertheless, its awe-inspiring beauty and challenging terrain make it a dream destination for mountaineers worldwide.

K2, the enigmatic “Savage Mountain,” remains a pinnacle of challenge and adventure for mountaineers worldwide. Its breathtaking beauty and unforgiving terrain continue to attract those with a spirit of exploration and a thirst for conquering the unknown. As we celebrate the historic triumphs of those who have reached its summit, we also honor the sacrifices of those who have made the ultimate sacrifice during the majestic K2 Expedition.

Journey to the Base Camp

K2 Expedition begins on a rocky mountain that reaches up to 6000 meters. Beyond this point, it transforms into a vast ocean of snow. The traditional route to reach the base camp starts from Skardu, connected to Islamabad by a well-maintained road. From Skardu, the path leads through Shigar-Dassu-Askole, guiding adventurers to Concordia over the enchanting Baltoro glacier. At an exact height of 8,611 meters (28,251 ft), the summit of K2 stands tall, beckoning only the bravest souls to attempt its climb.

The Savage Mountain

K2 has earned its moniker “The Savage Mountain” due to its treacherous terrain and the second-highest fatality rate among the “eight-thousanders” – mountains with a height exceeding 8,000 meters. For every four climbers who have successfully reached the summit, one has tragically lost their life trying to conquer this mighty peak. Such is the perilous nature of K2 that even the most experienced mountaineers approach it with both awe and caution.

A Historic Triumph

On 31 July 1954, an Italian expedition achieved a historic K2 Climb triumph by successfully ascending to the summit via the Abruzzi Spur. Led by the renowned Ardito Desio, the two climbers who reached the pinnacle were Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni. Among the expedition members was a notable Pakistani, Colonel Muhammad Ata-Ullah, who had previously been part of the 1953 American expedition. Also accompanying the team were the famous Italian climber Walter Bonatti and the indispensable Pakistani Hunza porter, Mahdi.

The Vital Role of the Pakistani Porter

The success of the K2 Expedition owes much to the bravery and dedication of the Pakistani Hunza porter, Mahdi. At a critical juncture during the climb, Mahdi and his fellow climbers had to carry oxygen canisters up to 8,100 meters (26,600 ft) for Lacedelli and Compagnoni. This challenging task proved to be vital in their ultimate success. Their determination and the dramatic bivouac in the open at such a high altitude marked another extraordinary chapter in the saga of Himalayan climbing.